A Chef's Guide to Salmon Sustainability and Ethical Fish Consumption
- Abigail Schmitt
- Feb 27
- 10 min read
In our eco-conscious world, making smart food choices is essential for everyone. The decline of fish populations and the deteriorating health of our aquatic ecosystems highlight the urgent need to understand salmon sustainability. This guide aims to simplify the complexities of salmon sourcing and equip you with practical tips for buying, eating, and enjoying fish responsibly.
Understanding Salmon Sustainability
Salmon play a crucial role in marine ecosystems across the globe and their populations are facing significant threats. Overfishing, habitat loss, and pollution have led to alarming decreases in salmon stocks.
Sustainability in salmon fishing means employing strategies that enable fish populations to regenerate while also maintaining the health of their habitats. This applies to farmed salmon, too, where overcrowding, poor feed quality, and water pollution often hinders sustainability.
Opting for sustainably sourced salmon is vital not only for preserving fish for decades to come but also for protecting the intricate ecosystems they inhabit. Choosing to consume less salmon or none at all may be the answer for some, but in today's world where the love of salmon runs strong, we want to find a healthy balance for us all.
Wild vs. Farmed Salmon
When selecting salmon, the main choice you have to make is between wild-caught and farmed options. If you have the conscious choice, availability and the money to choose, wild line-caught salmon will usually be the best choice. Wild Salmon do face many human-created difficulties, especially with pollution and when trying to migrate upstream within a system that has dams.
Seasonality and Salmon Description
Sockeye (Red) Salmon: Runs peak in June and July. The ones with the hooked upper lip. My top choice when fresh, but not when they're "running" or spawning (October-ish). Flesh is bright red and firm, very low fat content and high nutrient level.
Chinook Salmon (King Salmon): July through December - the biggest of salmon varieties. Protected in many areas, please avoid overconsumption.
Coho (Silver) Salmon: Best from late July through September. A more affordable option. Medium fat content, bright and vibrant flavor.
Pink Salmon: Fishing season: even-numbered years, peaking in July through August. The smallest and most abundant species, known for its light flavor and lower fat content. Often used for canning.
Atlantic Salmon: Farmed, available any time of year. Usually Frozen, or frozen and thawed. Never eat raw.
Wild-Caught Salmon
Wild salmon come from fisheries (boats) with strict regulations designed to protect and recover their populations. Wild fish are generally more flavorful and firmer due to their natural diet and active lifestyles. Line Caught means that it was caught with one line, and not a net. This is the most ethical option, and usually the more expensive one too.
Nutrients of wild salmon due to their variety in diet, like smaller fish, krill and kelp. Read Kelp is Crucial to Salmon, Studies show that wild salmon can have 20-30% more omega-3 fatty acids than their farmed counterparts. Critics claim farmed fish have more Omega-6 fatty acids, which contribute to claims of inflammation and constricted / clogged blood vessels. Always choose the wild option if you have the choice!
The life cycle of any wild salmon is a remarkable journey that begins in freshwater rivers and streams, when an egg hatches. In the fall, adult salmon migrate upstream, often traveling hundreds of miles against strong currents to reach their spawning grounds. This arduous journey culminates in the spawning season, where the female salmon lays thousands of eggs in gravel nests, known as redds. After fertilization by the males, both adult salmon's life comes to an end, as they die shortly after spawning. The eggs, nestled in the protective gravel, will incubate through the winter months, eventually hatching into "fry" that will continue follow the cycle of life down steam to the ocean and deeper water.
Q: Can you eat salmon that is spawning? Technically, yes. Many fishers take advantage of fishing in rivers for salmon migrating upstream. Toward the end of their lifecycle, however, and after laying their eggs, the salmon die - and through this process their body is in the state of decomposition. This obviously is not the most optimal time for humans to consume wild salmon. Some say the fish turns to a "cat food" like flavor of meaning it is probably best to leave the fish for the other animals to consume: eagles, bears etc.
Farmed Salmon
Usually Farmed, Atlantic Salmon are the species of fish that are raised well in controlled environments. Ideally this should help ensure a steady supply of fish, but often create more problems for fish and humans that consume them. Approximately 70% of the world's Salmon is farmed - coming from Norway or Chile, as well as the North-East Coast of Canada as well as Scotland. Japan and other Asian countries are also starting to increase their farmed fish populations. Contained in offshore pens, the fish cannot released into the wild for fear of contamination of the wild populations. Farming practices can lead to environmental issues such as:
Overcrowding leading to disease, parasites and "sea lice".
Water pollution from fish waste and uneaten fish food.
The use of antibiotics to manage health issues of fish.
Dying fish fillets pink to give appearance of healthy salmon
Some Salmon Farming Initiatives are making a positive impact:
To mitigate these concerns, look for certified options that follow responsible farming practices - though even these certified options are not always truthful in their operations. The Global Salmon Initiative offers more information on farmed salmon, though they do have "skin in the game" so I am still skeptical of their preachings. They have guides on how they are improving conditions and feed for the fish, which represents motivation on the whole to improve the process of salmon farming. On the plus side, salmon have the lowest feed-ratio per kilo of all farmed animals including chicken, pork, cattle and lamb - meaning that they actually are the most eco friendly of all farmed animals.
Guide to Sustainable Salmon Certifications
When shopping for salmon, certifications can help you choose what to buy. The salmon major markets in the world are Canada, Alaska, with emerging markets in Asia and Brazil.
Key Certifications
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC): Look for the blue label indicating sustainable harvesting practices.
Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC): This certification ensures that farmed fish are raised responsibly and sustainably.
Wildlife Friendly: A label ensuring wild-caught salmon is harvested with minimal environmental impact.
Be wary of vague terms like "sustainable" or "natural," which may not have solid backing. Instead, choose fish from reputable suppliers who can trace their sources to sustainable fisheries or farms.
The Importance of Local Seafood
Supporting local fisheries is a powerful way to promote sustainable fish consumption by keeping the money in the local economy. Supporting small fishing operations attempt a side-step of the large market's initiatives which see profit as the main motivating factor in their decision making (certainly not the climate or cyclical ecosystems). Purchasing local fishing operations often means fresher fish and a significantly reduced carbon footprint. Buying local can cut down transportation emissions by up to 85%.
To find local seafood, visit farmers' markets or consider joining a Community Supported Fishery (CSF). CSFs provide a direct route from fishers to consumers, ensuring that you receive fresh, responsibly harvested fish.
Fresh vs. Frozen
Many fishing operations will "flash freeze" meaning that they freeze whole fish or fillets immediately or very soon after catching, to keep the fish as fresh as possible to be able to sell later on. This is a widely accepted method for transporting fish worldwide and prevents any spoiling. Freezing can impact the texture of fish, especially if it is lower quality - the flakes of the fish may fall apart even before cooking (a bad sign) and the fish often loses some of it's flavor. Make sure any frozen fish you purchase is tightly vacuum sealed to prevent ice crystals and freezer taste. Flash frozen is a great way to buy a variety of fish, and doing this will kill off any parasites that may contaminate the fish, allowing you the safest sushi-grade salmon. Frozen fish can be thawed in slowly running water or in the fridge for a couple hours. Never thaw any protein at room temperature.
Extremely fresh fish will always be my first choice when cooking or consuming raw, because the flavor is pure, and texture unhindered. Old fish, as we all probably are aware, begins to smell, the skin can be slimy or flesh turned grey, and whole fish eyes will look cloudy or hard. Fresh fish should always be stored and transported on ice to prevent bacteria and parasite growth.
Salmon Alternatives
As consumers become more conscious of sustainability and the environmental impacts of fishing, alternatives to traditional salmon are gaining popularity. Steelhead trout, a close relative to salmon, offers a similar taste and texture while reducing the strain on wild salmon populations. The color, flavor and appearance of steelhead trout is very similar to salmon. My preference of Steelhead stems from the fact that it contains less fat than salmon, meaning that it has less calories and doesn't have a "fishy" and oily flavor. The skin is absolutely delicious to eat after grilling or frying, and is often more affordable and more widely available across North America.
Lab-grown salmon from presents a groundbreaking solution, utilizing cellular agriculture to produce fish without the need for fishing or farming in traditional settings. This innovative approach not only addresses concerns regarding overfishing and habitat destruction but also provides a sustainable option for those seeking the flavors of salmon without the ecological footprint. Cultivated proteins, especially fish, are still in the early stages of development and are facing some legal issues, namely in the state of Florida which recently banned the sale and manufacture of cultivated meat and seafood.
Ethical Eating: Cooking and Enjoying Salmon Responsibly
Storage and Preparation:
Using as much of the whole fish as possible is important to reduce waste and make the most out of your purchase or catch. You (or your dog) can eat the skin for it's omegas, and you can even make the bones into a fish stock. "Fumet" is the word we use for fish stock, used to enhance many recipes like a seafood risotto, seafood pasta, or cioppino.
Whole salmon should be bought gutted and scaled, and wrapped in paper. Your fish can be stored in the fridge like this for up to 24 hours. If storing longer than 24 hours, take it out of any paper or plastic and place on a tray bed of ice that can drain as it melts in the fridge or cooler. Fish can be cooked (grilled or baked) with the head on, and the fish cheeks and head are delicious for the adventurous eater. Fish heads also contain a lot of collagen, and they make for a great addition to your fumet. If you don't want to cook and eat a whole fish, buying a fillet or "side" is the easiest thing to do. Take out the fillet 1 hour before cooking and pat dry with a paper towel, and rest it skin side down on a cooking rack over a sheet tray, back in the fridge. Season 15 minutes before cooking with salt and pepper.
Generally a standard dinner-size portion of fish is 4 oz, or 113 grams. This is a small portion when plated, so I usually serve at least 5oz / 140g portions (uncooked). If buying a whole fish, make sure you account for the bones - about 6-7 oz per person.
Cooking Techniques - Chef Abigail's favorites noted with *
*Raw: Salmon sushi or nigiri (sake, in Japanese) is delicious and one of the most common fish to eat for sushi. Fatty salmon belly makes for delicious raw salmon dishes: Thick pieces of fish can be sliced or diced, the belly should be scraped with a spoon along the sinew for a tartare. Make sure to remove the skin and use a clean cutting board before processing the raw fish.
Grilling: A very hot and seasoned grill essential so you can flip the fish. Try grilling or open fire cooking in a "fish cage", which allows for easy flipping. You can always grill on a piece of tin foil or cedar plank!
*Smoking: If you choose to smoke your fish, make sure to "cure" the flesh with a mixture of salt and sugar for about 10-20 minutes first - it will help your salmon retain moisture and your salmon jerky won't be dry. Hot smoking will be great to eat right away, or cold smoke and preservation for later (vacuum sealed and refrigerated. Smoked fish bones will also make for a perfect "dashi" broth.
Curing - as in lox (bagels and lox)! Cure with a 1:1 salt and sugar (or miso : soy) mixture for 45 mins-1 hour, depending on thickness. Remove the skin and grey flesh, and slice thinly for your bagels or toast.
Poaching: Gently simmering salmon in broth (like in a donabe) or poach sealed and sous-vide, which will preserves moisture and eliminates the need to use oil in cooking. The fat from the fish will be enough!
Searing: Best done for a fillet that has the skin on, it will make the fish so crispy that you will have to eat the browned delicious skin like a crisp. Sear skin side down in a smoking hot cast iron or non-stick pan (ceramic), and press down with spatula or iron weight to surface area with the pan. Flip gently with a spatula, adding a touch of butter and aromatics, then turning down to heat to finish cooking.
Baking: A simple way to cook, baking on a sheet tray for a large dinner (skin side down with other vegetables like cippolini onions or leafy kale. Baking will allow even cooking, try "en papillote" with olive oil and herbs for a moist fish dish.
Pro Tip: Don't overcook, otherwise the fat will coagulate and push out the top. A 5 oz fillet should be cooked on medium heat for 5-8 minutes. Whole fish will take longer, about 45 minutes per 10 lbs. Fish should be tender, and technically, cooked to a temperature of 145 F / 62 C for safe consumption. Most chefs consider this temperature overcooked, so a lower temperature of 135 is best for a tasty fish.
Pairing with Seasonal Ingredients
To fully enjoy salmon, pair it with seasonal vegetables, cooked whole grains, and a light sauce. I love to cook salmon on the grill with broccoli, on a cedar plank, or sear in a cast iron with a sake sabayon (sauce). Ikura (salmon roe) is also a delicious way to pair with salmon, and is much less expensive than caviar. Salmon pairs well with cold sake, a glass or chardonnay or a bottle of Ginger Root Salt Spring Cider. Don't forget to serve your salmon on a heated plate, so it doesn't get cold!
Final Thoughts
Navigating the world of sustainability and ethical fish consumption requires a dedicated effort. Our choices as consumers significantly impact both industries and ecosystems. By understanding the differences between wild and farmed salmon, recognizing credible certifications, supporting local fisheries, and cooking responsibly, we can make a real difference. We are the ones that drive the market, ultimately. Choosing to not eat salmon and animal product might be the best option, but a close second is making conscious choices in everything we do.
Choose wisely, eat ethically, and inspire others to join in, ensuring that salmon thrives for generations to come.
Thank you for caring,
Cheers,
Abigail
Consume at your own risk: Consuming raw or undercooked fish can be a health risk for anyone, but especially pregnant women, children or elderly folks with a lower immune system. Guidelines recommend eating fish in moderation, due to the absorption of mercury by the muscle tissue in fish. Different groups of people can be greatly affected by mercury poisoning, especially children and pregnant women.
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