Kanzuri, The Snow - Fermented Chili Paste of Myoko

You can't find it made anywhere else in the world.

This story is about Kanzuri: a little jar of chili pepper paste. It's spice is addicting, the perfect level of heat with so much umami. It is made only in Myoko, a mountain town in the prefecture of Niigata, Japan. Myoko is quite the ski town, busiest in the winter months when it snows massive amounts from January through March. The town is beautiful all year round, with it's lush forests, lakes and rivers, but winter is the most popular. Niigata is known for its incredible quality of water and rice, which in turn means it produces delicious sake, miso, and other produce. Since kanzuri is made by way of fermentation, this is an essential point of it's story.

Snow-Fermented Chilis, laid out on the snow in front of Mount Myoko

Chilis being drained after rinsing off the salt - ready to spread out on the snow!

The process of snow-fermenting is both traditional and purposeful.

Since it is trademarked, only the Kanzuri Family in Myoko is allowed to make it (kind of like Champagne).

The pepper plant itself, the tōgarashi chili, is grown in the Niigata region by farmers, then harvested in the fall. The chilis are then packed in salt for 3 months, before the heavy snow begins to fall. In January, the chilis rinsed with water to remove the salt, drained and spread out on the snow fields to ferment. They are sandwiched in-between nets to keep them safe - The snow is said to absorb the salt and remove any bitterness, as well as softening the spice and boosting it's umami flavors. The chilis are often buried by new snowfall, and then are dug up after a few days. The chilis are then blended and mixed with salt, koji and yuzu peel, and fermented in barrels for a minimum of 3 years. Three years is very long time in the fermentation world, especially in the hot and humid summers that Japan has. Higher temperatures increases fermentation, and the barrels are moved around so they all can ferment the same amount as much as possible, to keep consistent flavors.

Togarashi Chilis, after rinsing off the salt

Kanzuri can be aged for up to 6 years before selling and consuming! There are different types you can buy, depending on the length of fermentation. They are sold in Myoko area and this is where you can find the different varieties of it, and at the best prices. They are usually sold in a 4oz jar for about ¥ 600-800 ($3) but it is sold for almost $20 in the USA.

Fermenting with koji, especially the special strains of koji spores from Niigata, really strengthens the umami flavors, and the yuzu gives it a brighter citrus taste. It is different than Yuzu Koshō, another very special but very different Japanese condiment - also made with fermented salted yuzu and chilis.

Cooking with Kanzuri: As a thick paste, kanzuri is best mixed with other things to spread out the flavor, or served as a tiny spoonful right on the edge of your plate. I love to use kanzuri mixed with kewpie mayo (on Karaage or Japanese fried chicken), mixed with yuzu juice or soy sauce and poured over rice with fried eggs. It's also delicious on sushi or sashimi, as well as grilled veggies, for marinated tofu or any kind of protein.

Pairing: The spicy-citrus-umami of kanzuri is best paired with something that will either boost it's flavor or calm the spice a bit. Kanzuri pairs well with nigori sake (cloudy, kind of creamy), a nama (raw) sake or a yamahai (wild fermented sake)

Spreading out the chilis on the snow

This year will be my third year spending snowy days in these mountains of Myoko, skiing and eating, with plenty of onsen soaks in between. You can visit the factory any time of year, but Mid-January to February is when the chilis are laid out in the snow! Let me know if you want me to fill my suitcase with jars of Kanzuri from Myoko this winter.

Now that I'm thoroughly hungry, I bid you sayonara.

Cheers,

Abigail